I received my generator back from the local repair shop and they said the stator and AVR board need to be replaced. They wanted $600 to do the work. I really didn't want to dump in that much money. I decided that I can do this job myself and just purchased the new Stator and AVR board for my generator. Is there anything special I should take into account with the parts swap?
Is there anything I have to do do other than replace the parts? This is my first time messing around with the generator so any help that can be sent my way will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Robert. The stator is M-effin heavy. Best to drain oil out of the engine, and stand generator on its side so you can lift the old stator off and lower the new one in. Remove the negative battery cable so the engine don't crank.
Be aware of the stator sits in a groove on the rear bell otherwise it will bind with the rotor. You dont have any battery charge windings so no rectifiers or any extra guts to remove in the end bell. When removing note the wire positions on the regulator and assemble in reverse order when ready. Note the position of were the wires off the stator are located, like bottom, left, right etc. Its usually on the left side but thats how it was on my 7k EXL.
Take your time, make sure everything spins freely, tighten up the 4 bolts that hold the stator in a cross pattern, fire it up, should be just fine. Also check to make sure your brushes and slip ring assembly is clean and good, if not some cleaning is in order. Let us know if you run into any trouble. Stator is part# 198498AGS FYI, I see you may have already purchased it but just making sure its the right part#.
While Len has a good point that should be concidered, to add to his inquiry. Does this engine have full pressure lubrication with oil filter or splash design? If it doesnt not have an oil filter, I would think twice of investing money.
However for the EXL models I THINK you have the same motor as me, the GN-410 which is full pressure lubrication. Do you know how many hours are on the machine? Are you the original owner? If so have you kept up with oil changes and general maintenence like valve adjustment, spark plug etc? Hey Robert,.002 to.004 inches for the GN-320, GN-360, and GN-410. Adjustment must be done when the engine is cold. You must adjust the valves when the cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke this is very important.
Exl 8000 Generator Parts
This will relax both valves for you to get a good feel of where the valves are adjusted at. When the engine warms up the lash tends to get smaller. I would say use the.004 gauge and adjust so its slightly snug. You will need a big allen wrench, and a very small set of channel locks or bent open end wrench to get to the lock down nuts, which honestly a little bit of torque goes a long way, dont stress yourself if you cant tighten them like a gorilla. You may also have to change the valve cover gasket too so be aware. I'm assuming you have the GN-410, if you do let me know I can shoot you the part#, I don't know it off hand.
Clean the crap that accumulates on top of the cover so it dont fall into the engine. Gasket will be stuck to the engine block most likely, if it looks intact, make sure its clean, you may be able to reuse. It will run much better trust me, any clearance greater than.004 it will still run, but start to misfire, lots of tappet noise, and lack of full engine power. Just did this to my grandfather's 7000EXL machine, man what a difference, smooth running after that.
Manual Exl 8000 Parts
The Oil filter you need which you can get at any walmart should be the the Fram Ph4967, perfect size for the generac brand label one. SAE30 or 10W-30 will work fine.
5W-30 if being used in the winter. I have synthetic SAE 30 in mine. Hope this helps. Any more questions feel free.