Racer Rob wrote:Have just finished installing Mr Turbo on citi golf. Tried starting last night and not starting.
Green light flashes once and red light stays on. Fuel pump starts and then stops when i try to crank the motor. Does any one have any experince/advice with this system? I will be phoning ivan today but any input would be appreciated. Ok, red light is your power light, showing that the box has power the green light should flash/pulse all the time when you cranking it as that is shows how your injectors are pulsing. Racer Rob wrote:Have just finished installing Mr Turbo on citi golf. Tried starting last night and not starting.
Green light flashes once and red light stays on. Fuel pump starts and then stops when i try to crank the motor.
Does any one have any experince/advice with this system? I will be phoning ivan today but any input would be appreciated.
No experience with MR Turbo management, but the box is not seeing the rpm pickup - so there is someting wrong with your wiring to the dizzy. If the box pickup the dizzy signal the green light should stay flashing. The plot thickens. Checked rpm signal to box. No problems with cable.
Power to hall sender is fine on ignition but when it cranks the power drops off. The only thing i can think of is the alarm.
The alarm cuts the power cable to the hall sender and to the fuel pump. When ignition is on these are closed and power goes through but maybe when cranking the alarm loses a signal and the power is lost to the fuel pump and hall sender. I ran out of time to check last night but will check tonight. Failing this it is back to the drawing board. I checked everything else and seems fine.
Swapped out mr turbo unit, tci unit and dizzy with same result so it has to be the wiring. A few things to check.
1.) where you getting the power for the box from? It should be directly from the battery into a relay, the relay should be switched fia the ignition directly - not the accessories as these get cut during cranking. 2.) Same with the power for the TCI. 3.) the fuelpump should also be triggered via a relay and the power should come from the same source as the box - not sure, but mr turbo should have a wire that runs to the fuelpump relay that will turn it on when there is rpm. 4.) the hall sendor should get its power from the comp box. Just as i thought the signal for ignition for the alarm dropped out during cranking and then the alarm cuts power to hall sender and fuel pump. Changed position of alarm ignition wire and now green led pulsing during cranking and fuel pump working.
Car now wants to run but did not managed to idle and tends to run on for a second or two and then dies. Will spend some time this week-end and see if i can get her to idle and rev a bit. Does any-one know if this is possible with the start up map?
Is there anything else i can adjust to help with the start up? Does any-one have a Mr Turbo map for 1.8/2.0 and a lap-top to download map? That would really be appreciated.
Racer Rob wrote:Car now wants to run but did not managed to idle and tends to run on for a second or two and then dies. Will spend some time this week-end and see if i can get her to idle and rev a bit. Does any-one know if this is possible with the start up map? Is there anything else i can adjust to help with the start up?
Does any-one have a Mr Turbo map for 1.8/2.0 and a lap-top to download map? That would really be appreciated Yes it is possable with the startup map, as it is only a starting point and does not garantee a running car. You could loostern the dizzy and turn it abit - eitehr way - small inrements and see if it improves.
The timing on the motor should be adjusted to match the timing reported by the mr turbo software to get it 100%. Sorry cant help with the mr turbo map - have never used mr turbo - come to think of it - that is the only local system that I have not had on my car. Racer Rob wrote:Spent some time yesterday turning dizzy and car is now 'running' but definately not drivable. The fuel pump is connected as per Mr Turbo diagram that is the positive is taken off the power of the injectors and the negative to the battery. The engine wants to run but i am sure the map is the problem. Does anyone have a 1.8/2.0 8v map for Mr Turbo that can be downloaded just to get the car to the tuner??? Failing that does anyone know where there is a good place to rent a trailer.???
Phone Ivan at MR Turbo - sure they shouldhave a map to get you going.
Turbo systems are made of the highest quality materials and fabrication techniques. Our exhaust systems, for instance, are bent on CNC tube bending machines.
Then TIG welded, before being coated with the finest high temperature ceramic coating. A great deal of our parts are CNC machined from 6061 T-6 aluminum and 407 stainless steel. All hoses and fittings are tested for their abilities to withstand the high temperatures and pressures of a racing environment.
Stainless hardware (bolts, nuts, fasteners, etc.) can be found throughout our systems as well as stainless reinforced exhaust gaskets, hoses and hose clamps. Every effort is made to assure long term reliability.
We do the work for you. Each system is complete, meaning very little, if any, fabrication is required.
Hoses for oil lines, fuel lines and silicon intake system hoses are all finished for easy installation. No wrestling with hose end fittings and miss cut hoses.
Our systems are designed for the average mechanically inclined rider to install at home, with a few basic tools that you probably already have. Of course, any qualified performance shop or dealership is qualified to do the work. And their expertise will certainly add value to the installation. Please Note: We do NOT do 'one-off' or 'custom' turbo systems. Please see the list of our kits under each brand's tab.
If you do not see your bike listed, it's because we DO NOT manufacture a kit for that particular bike and don't have current plans for one. We update our website regularly and will debut and inform you of new kits when they are available. If you have a desire to build your own turbo system, we can supply you with the raw components to build such a system (see Universal Kit tab). If you decide the universal kit is right for you, please call and speak with one of our Technicians during the designated 'Tech Time' stated under. $3,995.00 1. $3,995.00 1.
$5,995.00 1. $4,495.00 1. $4,995.00 1.
$4,495.00 1. $4,995.00 1. $5,695.00 1. $7,995.00.
Please Note: We do NOT do 'one-off' or 'custom' turbo systems. Please see the list of our kits under each brand's tab.
If you do not see your bike listed, it's because we DO NOT manufacture a kit for that particular bike and don't have current plans for one. We update our website regularly and will debut and inform you of new kits when they are available. If you have a desire to build your own turbo system, we can supply you with the raw components to build such a system (see Universal Kit tab). If you decide the universal kit is right for you, please call and speak with one of our Technicians during the designated 'Tech Time' stated under. $3,995.00 1. $3,995.00 1.
$3,995.00 1. $3,995.00 1. $4,995.00 1. $5,695.00 1. $7,995.00 1.
$4,995.00. Please Note: We do NOT do 'one-off' or 'custom' turbo systems. Please see the list of our kits under each brand's tab. If you do not see your bike listed, it's because we DO NOT manufacture a kit for that particular bike and don't have current plans for one. We update our website regularly and will debut and inform you of new kits when they are available.
If you have a desire to build your own turbo system, we can supply you with the raw components to build such a system (see Universal Kit tab). If you decide the universal kit is right for you, please call and speak with one of our Technicians during the designated 'Tech Time' stated under. $6,495.00 1. $4,995.00 1. $5,695.00 1. $7,995.00.
Please Note: We do NOT do 'one-off' or 'custom' turbo systems. Please see the list of our kits under each brand's tab.
If you do not see your bike listed, it's because we DO NOT manufacture a kit for that particular bike and don't have current plans for one. We update our website regularly and will debut and inform you of new kits when they are available. If you have a desire to build your own turbo system, we can supply you with the raw components to build such a system (see Universal Kit tab). If you decide the universal kit is right for you, please call and speak with one of our Technicians during the designated 'Tech Time' stated under. Our Universal Kit is simply all of the components used to assemble a turbo system from the ground up. Items included are: - Turbo (sized per application) - Steel U-Bends (enough to fabricate complete header, intake pipes, tail pipes, etc.) - Cast Intake Manifold (draw-through system) - Carburetor (draw-through system) - Wastegate - Fuel Pump - Gaskets, Hose Clamps, Stainless Bolts & Fasteners - Silicone Intake Hose - Oil Lines - Boost Gauge. This is a basic list of parts.
The final list will be determined based on engine size, power output, blow-through, fuel injection, or draw-through carbureted, etc. This type of turbo system requires someone who can weld and fabricate and has good working knowledge of engines, fuel systems, and ignition systems (i.e. This system will not be a success unless an experienced mechanically inclined person is involved in the project.) At Mr Turbo, we do not like to turn down anyone who has a desire to turbo their motorcycle, and we obviously can't produce systems for bikes that we feel will not move the product well, so we offer the Universal Kit. Information is available from our Technical Department to help with not only making a decision on this system, but also some limited help on how to proceed with assembling this system for your particular application. Again, the tech help is limited, we usually offer 1 hour of tech time with this system, which should provide the basics for a successful install. $2,995.00. All racing systems are designed per application, I.E.
Our typical track system would include: All street system components excluding a tail pipe, but would be updated to a banana pipe (dump pipe), high-volume fuel pump, upgraded turbo, possibly a multi-stage waste gate etc. From a super gas bike needing to run 9.90's to a pro mod or funny bike digging deep into the sixes, the combination of parts needed to do the job will be quite different. That's why we insist on talking to you the customer before you order. We're going to ask questions.
Are you building a Pro-Street type set up or a wheelie bar bike? How big is your tire, how long is your wheel base, do you want to run 8.50's low 8's, sevens, sixes? We can get you there, but we want to see you do it right the first time, and we do not want you buying something that you do not need! This happens more than you realize. Let us help you get what you need for the job at hand and not waste money on what you can’t use. Call us for a break down on your combination. Kawasaki KZ Race System.
Kawasaki Track System. Kawasaki Track System - Fuel Injected. Kawasaki Alcohol System - Fuel Injected. Suzuki Track System. Suzuki Track System - Fuel Injected. Suzuki Alcohol System - Fuel Injected. $ 5995.00 Prices listed are starting prices based on a kit of parts for that particular system.
Each order is considered custom, and final prices can vary. Please call for a detailed quote for your application. EFI Systems: Power Commander Secondary Systems Stand-Alone Systems Billet Throttle Body Clamp (Busa) EFI High Volume Fuel Pumps EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator Turbo Upgrades Nitrous Oxide Systems Intercoolers Tial Wastegate EFI Controllers Injectors Classic Draw-Through Systems: S&S Race Carbs Mikuni HSR 42 Carb High Volume Fuel Pumps - Carburetion Fuel pressure regulators Mr Turbo Multi-Stage Wastegate Turbo Upgrades Nitrous Oxide Systems. Our kits do not require in house installation; they are designed to be easily installed by someone with basic mechanical knowledge.
They come with detailed instructions with color photos, and our technicians are available during the normal 'Tech Time' (Monday - Wednesday, 3p - 5p, central time) to answer your questions. However, we do offer in house installation, which includes personalized dyno mapping and a print out of your dyno runs. In House Installation for Stage 1 Kits $1,000.00. One of the most commonly asked questions among racers is: 'Why turbocharging?' People question why a good normally aspirated motor with a header, cams, big carbs, a little port work, and even a shot of nitrous if needed, will not keep up with a stock engined turbo bike. Actually, it will to a point, but at what cost? 'Besides, its cheaper to build a stout normally aspirated motor.
We get a number of calls like this directed to our technical staff. When it comes time to get the most horsepower, when you want the most reliable combination, and when you want to have the most drivability. Turbo charging wins hands down every time! 239.1 hp @ 9,700 RPM.
199.5 hp @ 10,200 RPM. Max Torque = 145.2 @ 9,700 RPM.
Max Torque = 111.4 @ 10,200 RPM The numbers do not lie. 40 horsepower extra at only 8 lbs. Every additional pound of boost adds another 10 hp, so there is more power available. Because our system comes with an adjustable wastegate, you can turn it up to any desired level. It's something that you can ride to the beach during the day, tear up the local streets at night, all with a good quality pump gas. Then when you’re ready to turn up the boost, pour in the racing fuel and head to the track. Let’s take a Suzuki Hayabusa and do a cost comparison between turbocharging and a big bore set up.
You will be very surprised! Example Our target, for a strong street bike or a decent strip runner, is 200 rear wheel horsepower. If you do the math. You will save $1909.05 (or more) by going the turbo route. And you will have a much more reliable bike, and the 'cool factor' when people see a turbo street bike pull into the lot will make it even better! Our target comparison does not include things such as aftermarket connecting rods, ignition components and fancy coatings. Which you could end up doing to make the normally aspirated engine live longer.
NORMALLY ASPIRATED ENGINE. TURBO ENGINE (Stage I) PARTS. PARTS Pistons - 12.5: 1. Fully Stock Engine (no added components for Stage I).$0.00 84mm Block Work. Power Commander.$ $332.99 High Perf. $616.50 Cam Chain Tensioner.
Turbo Hayabusa Stage I Classic Turbo. $3,995.00 Adj. Cam Sprockets. $130.75 Crank - Stock. LABOR Rods - Stock. Turbo Kit Installation (optional). $1,000.00 Valve Springs w/ Retainers.
$359.00 Valve Guide Seals. TURBO TOTAL: $5,327.99 Heavy Duty Cyl Studs & Nuts. $154.90 84mm Head Gasket.
$78.00 Power Commander. $332.99 Full Exhaust. $1,149.95 Oil, Oil Filter & Plugs.
$33.00 LABOR Pro Engine Assy. $1,200.00 R&R Engine. $450.00 Valve Job.
$402.00 Mill Cyl. $75.00 Port Work. $570.00 Dyno. (break in tuning & map for this combo). TOTAL: $7,237.04 As you can see, the normally aspirated motor takes a considerable amount of time to perform machine work disassembly and reassembly.
The end result can be quite tricky to obtain only after much fine tuning. The turbo engine on the other hand requires very little in the way of labor and expensive engine parts. Singer sewing machine 500 repair manual.
The turbo kit can be installed in a day, and offer years of reliable service. The graphs here tell the final tale. At this power level, pump gas can be used in both engines.
But, add racing gas to the turbo bike and turn the boost up! Each extra pound of boost will net another 10 horsepower! So, even with a stock Busa motor, you can run as much as 12 lbs.
Mr Turbo Efi Installation Guide
Of boost, making 280 horsepower! The normally aspirated motor is stuck at 200 hp.
The turbo combination is adjustable. Turn it up or turn it down depending on the power desirable.