So what does this mean? Simply stated, the 401 is the better-built machine. The Rocketeer is the begining of the end of all-metal slant-needle machines. It is still metal where it counts, but it suffers from a severe case of 'style-over-substance'-itis. The futuristic 'Jetsons' styling is super cool but comes at a price.
Enclosing the bobbin winder stream-lined the styling, but the auto-stop kick-out spring is prone to breakage from metal fatigue. The spring-loaded fold-down spool spindles are also prone to breakage. The removable top-mount spindle is easily lost and can be difficult to replace. On the other hand, the Rocketeer does allow you to leave the top open while sewing so you can easily change stitch-patterns. The 401 spool spindles sit right on top of the pattern chart, which can be awkward.
The 401 spindles are also vulnerable to snapping off during shipping or storage, but they are simpler to replace than the 500 spindles. The 401 is tougher-built, but the Rocketeer is not far behind it. Both models are wonderful vintage Singer machines. If you can't find a 401 in your price range, the Rocketeer may be the machine for you.
A very good condition 500 will typically cost less than an equivalent 401. Happy sewing! Barbara OldSewinGear.dedicated to helping you get the most out of your old sewing gear. Without seeing the machine it's hard to answer definitively, but the first and easiest thing to check is that you are using the correct combination for straight stitching. First of all, make sure your dial is set to 'A' on the left and 'K' on the right. Then set the stitch width selector at '3'.
Setting the width selector at 3 keeps the needle in the center position rather than to left or right, which produces a nicer stitch. Quality of stitch will also be best when using the straight stitch needle plate (it's the one with the tiny little round hole rather than oblong hole) along with the straight stitch presser foot. The fabric is held taut and the needle has better punching power this way. IF quality of the stitching is still poor when using the above settings then there may be something out of adjustment or worn from use. I hope this information helps. That's the best I can do without seeing the machine in person.
It's a bit outside of my expertise to try to describe the adjustment process long-distance. If absolutley perfectly aligned straight stitches are necessary then you may be better served by a machine that is designed for straight-stitch only, such as the 301, 404 or 604 which are also gear-driven slant-needle machines. In my experience the straight-stitch produced by a straight-stitch-only machine is slightly superior to that produced by a zig-zag machine. Thank you for your question, I hope you are able to resolve the issue and enjoy your Rocketeer for many years to come. Happy sewing, Barbara. Hello, in regard to your inquiry about the # 500 machine stitch quality.
You mentioned that it is satisfactory when you are sewing slowly.That may be an indication the the feed dog height adjustment may need to be modified to raise them a bit higher. This can loosen up as any machine subject to use or age. It is a simple adjustment, but the motor and bracket need to be removed and the tools needed are a socket wrench and screwdriver. The two top connecting rods attach to the bottom to control the stitch length and the feed dog height.
You may want to reserve this for a trusted sewing machine mechanic. I bought the repair manual and out of necessity, and taught myself. I can re-time them, replace a hook, clean and oil the motor. I don't trust any of the mechanics in my area.
Best of luck, Richard Ransom Beman. Hi Barbara, I had accidentally deleted your response from my email and couldn't remember where I had found you, until the other person made a comment, which I also got on my email. I wanted to thank you for your tips regarding my 503A. I changed the plate and the stitching was perfect. I'm so happy with her. Then I went ahead and changed the throat plate on my late 70's kenmore too, and what I thought was great stitching became stellar stitching. I had never changed the throat plate on my relatively new (plastic) singer and never thought it could make a difference, but was I wrong!!!!
Thanks for the great insight! Best, Elisana. Paul, thanks for raising this important question.
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This 'extra' thread guide/take-up is one of the 500's more interesting innovations, but was dropped by Singer on subsequent models. I've seen it on one other model, the 411G Slant-o-Matic (see photo on 'Gallery' page) which was a funky hybrid of features from the 401, 400, and 600. Like you, I 'get' the concept but have my doubts that it really contributes anything meaningful to the equation. Apparently Singer came to the same conclusion because they actually circulated an alternate threading diagram for the 500/503 that completely bypasses the additional tensioner. I prefer to use this alternate method because it's faster and there doesn't seem to be a lick of difference in stitch quality! For more information and a copy of the diagram visit: Terry shares a wealth of technical repair details on his excellent site.
It's a great resource! Thanks again for the question! Look for an article on this topic soon! Happy Sewing, Barbara. The original Singer foot controls don't have speed settings, but were simply designed to go faster the harder you stepped on them. Not as sophisticated as later electronic controls. Here are a couple of suggestions for sewing at lower speed.
Use the handwheel to start the needle moving at the same time you press on the foot control. This allows you to use less pressure on the control to get started. If you are using a cabinet with a knee lever. make sure the knee lever mechanism is well lubricated. If it's stiff it can place too much pressure on the foot control. If the first two suggestions don't help, try popping the foot control out of the cabinet and using it with your foot. You may find that gives you better control than the knee lever.
I hope these suggestions help. Congratulations on your 500! They are wonderful machines.
Happy Sewing, Barbara for OldSewinGear.For the benefit of fellow readers, when using a Singer sewing cabinet, the foot control slides into a bracket inside the cabinet and a metal knee lever is hinged to press against the button on the foot control so you can operate the machine with knee pressure. No more cords on the floor! Andy, The value of you machine depends on several factors that cannot be determined without seeing the machine up close and in person. Values go up and down based on supply and demand, so it's hard to predict what a machine might sell for. Condition and accessories do matter, so it's a good thing you have the manual and case. My recommendation is to visit eBay and look at recently completed listings to find a comparable machine to yours. You can also check your local craigslist to see what similar machines are selling for.
Hope you find what you're looking for. Barbara for OldSewinGear. Hi Barbara, I'm also having this issue with my 401A. It was was my grandmother's machine that hadn't be used in 25+ years so I'm very excited to have it. I had it tuned up at a local repair shop and they said it was in amazing condition. Anyhow, when trying to sew slowly the machine is having a really hard time getting going, or if I slow down too much it stops and hums. I have to press the foot pedal more to get it moving but then it's sewing much too fast.
I'm sewing with thin/lightweight fabrics using a 90/14 needle and poly thread. I would appreciate your input as to what you think might be wrong. I've read the foot pedal might be a problem, otherwise I'm at a loss. Thanks for you help! What a wonderful review!
I fell in love with a Rocketeer after watching a couple of youtube videos and have been looking for one with price that is friendlier to my wallet. Well, I am rediscovering the joy of sewing decades after my mom gave my beloved Singer sewing machine, an old treadle, that I inherited from my late auntie (dad's side) to another auntie (her side). I scored a 1940s Kenmore model 117.959 for cheap from an estate sale and have been happy with it. However, the thought of Rocketeer has been bugging me for awhile, though I wasn't sure if I should really invest in one considering my finances a bit tight. Then I came across your review, which prompted me to check CL and, lo and behold, I found a couple of them!
One is 503A ($45, no cams/accessories, with table, no clear shots so I can't tell its condition) and the other is 500A ($125, no table, looks very clean). In addition to the Rocketeer, there is also a 401A (accessories + table, originally priced $300, now $150, photo with accessories isn't clear so other than bobbins I can't tell what else is there).
I wish I can include the photos of the three Singers here so you may be able to tell me if the asking price is fair. I just wanted to say I was born in the late 70s and am just now finding out 'they dont make 'em like they use to!' I have been dealing with my plastic inards singer with 46 stitch functions that will only sew a strait seem lol found out a cam cracked and that was that! I replaced her with a 503 and I am IN LOVE with this machine!!! Im so glad I got her!
I say youre doing real well to have EITHER one of them!!! When I went to go pick mine up the woman who was selling her (and had another one too almost couldnt let go! Lol I wasnt real sure I was getting out of there with that sewing machine!!!
Old Singer Sewing Machines Manuals
She also showed me all kinds of things with her too like she sewed a 1/4 inch thick leather strap and a swatch of heavy denim folded to make 12 layers, was blown away! My walmart singer would never have gotten through4 layers I know, I tried to hem a pair of jeans and couldnt! Im so glad these are still around to be had!!! Have fun with your machine!!! I will with mine!! Yolande, The simple answer is to look for a reputable seller on eBay or other website (tandtrepair.com is a source I've used). But before you order a new motor, you might consider taking the one you have to a small-motor repairman locally.
Singer Sewing Machine 500 Repair Manual Pdf
Many times these old motors can be rebuilt to last another 50 years. And be sure to rule out any other possible causes (foot control, electrical connections, power cord) before replacing the motor. Keep in mind, too, that the motor shafts on the 401 and 500 are different, so be very sure you are purchasing the correct motor for your machine. I hope this information helps and that you get your machine up and running again soon! Barbara for OldSewinGear.