I stopped by a local used shop equiptment shop today to get a fly cutter and casually asked if any small lathes had come in. He said there was a 10' logan that came in last thursday.

  1. Logan 820 Lathe Parts

It is on the origional legs with stock chip pan and has 2 complete sets of 3C collets and two draw bars ( he is keeping on set) it has 2.3jaw chucks one 4 jaw chuck a steady rest and a pile of bits and pieces. The post that suports the belt drive is in place all the covers are unbent and in good shape. The ways ar about perfect.

The origional forward /reverse switch has been replaced with a newer square D controler an looks quite new but the paint is origional and in obviously has some years of wear but it is clean. The Bull gear is missing teeth in two places and all the other gears are fine. It came from a factory that made paper bags and this lathe was used fo make needed parts to keepthe bags going so it was more or lesss atool room usage machine, not production. I see abull gear advertised for a monkey ward Power-craft 10' lathe will that fit this model 820 logan 10 inch??? I have seen bull gears that were filled with brazing and the missing teeth recut??? Is this an acceptable repair or is it a wast of time and money anybody know of another Bull gear available? You can still get many of the logan parts directly from Logan.

Scott Logan has a yahoo group and does an admiral job at supporting the machines his family made. The lathes made by Logan are really nice machines, I had a 9x28 Logan for many years and only sold it because I needed a bigger machine and did not have room for both. Logan Lathe Users Group For discussion and announcements related to Logan Lathes.

Hosted by Scott Logan, Logan Actuator Co. Question about Back Gear Adjustment? See See our online store at Check out the FAQ first Walter. Well Knudsen.i committed to buy it today with a $200. Deposit and they agreed to give me 60 days to pay it off. The bull gear is the only thing that needs to be repaired. There is a used one for a logan/ward 10 inch for $ 150.00 on e-bay ' buy it now' or logan actuator will sell me a brand new one for about $ 450.00.

It will work the way it is now but be a bit noisy i wont even have it home for two months then i am planning to give it a 'liquid overhaul' and at the same time go over it real carefully and see what makes it tick and see what else could use any TLC so I have a lot of time. If you come up with a gear Please let me know. Meanwhile I have feelers out localy. I got the bull gear out.I'll rewire the Motor for 120 V 9 it's a peerless 1/2 Hp motor and im quite certain it's the origional motor since striping the grey paint reveals the same color as the origional paint found on un -accessible parts of the machine.

MWith the spindle removed The front bearing doesn't feel good at all so I want to replace it while everything is apart.i may as well replace the rear bearing also. Are these bearings available through industrial suppliers or must one go through Logan actuator???????

If available outside of Logan, can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thanks for the reply. I want to partially disassemble the lathe to get it home- do you have any instructions, diagrams, pictures or advice that might make the job easier. I want to take the tailstock, carriage, covers, legs, pan, motor and pulley system off, maybe the headstock also. Is it very difficult to remove the headstock or should I just leave it on?

Can one person muscle a bed with the headstock still attached into the back of a pickup? As you can tell, I'm a total newbie: lots of enthusiasm, no experience. Swarf, I have an 820 from July '43 I purchased from another board member about 1 1/2 years ago.

Remove as much as you can without tools as you stated in your second post, then go behind the lathe and remove the 2 pins that hold the drive unit onto the lathe. Everything in the drive system is supported by those 2 pins and the peg-leg going down to the ground. The drive & support assy comes in at just under 100 pounds. Remove the chuck from the spindle as well.

There are 2 bolts under the headstock which go up through clamps which hold the head to the bed. It's no probem to remove them (take your socket set) and lift the head off.

Be careful not to damage any of the gears on the left side in transit. Taking the carriage off is a little too hard to describe in this post, but it can be done by removing the leadscrew support at the right side of the leadscrew. If you remove the carriage, youll need to either remove the quick change as well or support the leadscrew to keep it from bending.

LoganLogan 820 lathe

I left the head and carriage on mine when I moved it the 60 or so miles to my home. I lifted the lathe with an engine hoist onto a trailer, still mounted on the legs. I had a 9' SB prior to the Logan, sold the SB, still have the Logan.

There is a Yahoo Logan Lathe group moderated by Scott Logan if you are interested. I was lucky to have received all of the original books and paperwork with mine, including it's final inspection card! The manual, for that serial number, will cost you about $20.

No biggie, but it will definitely help you out. I disassembled mine completely, since the P.O. Had no clue, and had assembled some stuff wrong, and messed up others.

I also have a South Bend countershaft, so it does NOT have the kinky drive box. (Nor a QC.) No advice on that part, although removing the drive box looks good to me.

Logan

Bare, the bed can be handled by one person with a two-wheeler. It is a little too heavy to put up on its legs single-handed, unless you put it up on blocking first.

Headstock is 2 (or 4 on that model??) cap screws thru strongbacks from below. After they are out it lifts off. Just do not judder it over concrete on its legs. They won't like that maybe. I heard of a set that cracked doing that. It dropped the bed on concrete.

Hello Swarf; I second what the other guys say. As much as I love my old antique lathes, I use my trusty Logan 1940 for 90% of my lathe work. I've had it for about 15 years. I recently bought a Logan 1820, which is fitted out as a 2nd operation machine with the lever cross slide and turret tailstock. Logans are inexpensive, easy to find parts for, and simple to operate. It's a great lathe to learn on, and even after you get a bigger lathe, you'll still want to keep the Logan to do the smaller jobs. Mine's almost always set up with a 5C collet closer, and I use it for almost every job smaller than 1' dia.

Logan 820 Lathe Parts

On moving it, yes, a Logan is easy to take apart and put back together. As mentioned above, I'd leave the apron, leadscrew, and QC box in place. I highly recommend removing the overhanging motor drive assembly before moving it. When I brought home my 1820, I left the drive assembly on, strapping and supporting it carefully (or so I thought). A couple miles into the trip, the trailer bounced, and one of the pivot brackets snapped off. Not a real big deal; a replacement cost me $20 on ebay.

But I should have taken the assembly off. At that time, I didn't have a hoist at the shop. I disassembled most of it onboard the trailer, and had no trouble dragging the bed/legs/headstock off the trailer by myself. Three guys can pick it up and carry it like that. Go for it and have fun learning! And then start planning for the 24' Lodge & Shipley that you'll eventually have to have.

Bruce Johnson. I too have just picked up a model 820 Logan lathe. It had sat, unused for 20+ years at a private school. All the oil on it had turned to shellac(or it's equivalent). Cleaning it up I find it is in very nice shape, almost unused. The bed has 8-10 nicks in it from people dropping the 4 jaw on it. Set up and running it is very quiet and smooth.

I need to get the manuals however, as I am not sure of the gear configuration under the LH cover. Somewhere I saw a 24 tooth gear was needed in the gear train. Be careful moving lathes - they are deceptively top heavy. After having one topple over (16' SB) it is plain to see why (all the heavy stuff is on or above the bed).

Mine stripped easily to the bed, leaving the gear box and carriage in place. Looks to be a good machine. Good luck with yours. All advice above is sound and valid - whatta great bunch of guys!