I've had a Stihl FS45 line trimmer for a couple of years, and when it is running, it is the smoothest running weedeater I've ever used. Problem is, its a PITA to actually get running.
No matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the thing cranked without flooding the carb and cylinder. It doesn't matter if you use the choke or not, the bastard wants to flood out. Lately, the only way I have been able to get the thing to run is to hold the throttle down and pull the cord until it starts.
Problem is, this method requires me to pull the plug at least once to dry the cylinder out. Now, once you get it going and warmed up, it typically runs great.if you can get the bastard cranked. I've pulled the carb and cleaned it, which hasn't seemed to help. Any suggestions? Read pages 22, 23, and 25 in the user manual. The Stihl has a specific startup procedure to start and if you do it, it will work perfectly.
I have had several people complain about getting them to run, but once I showed them the procedure they work everytime. My father was even given a brand new FS45 that the owner couldn't get running, I started it within a couple of pulls. The reason you can only get it to start with the throttle depressed is because it is supposed to start that way. Flip stop switch to the I position Squeeze the throttle and lock so the throttle stays wide open Set the choke open Prime at least 5 times(I prime until the bulb is full and give it another pump or two) Pull cord until it starts then dies Turn off choke and pull cord until it starts Once it is running, squeeze throttle lever to disengage the tongue and settle to idle speed. I have had my FS45 for over 7 years, and never winterized it or added fuel stabilizers other than what was in the oil. The carbs were finally gummed up this spring, I cleaned the carbs and started using AmsOil Saber at 1:100 mix and she is back to running beautifully. Originally Posted By kentuckysmith: Zama carbs suck but you can get a new one for $25.
Easier than rebuilding it. This, early carbs didn't have the ethanol rated sealants on the welch plugs in the carb. The metering diaphragm also gets hard and it will keep the inlet needle open causing it to flood.
Look on the side of the carb, there will be an laser etched number that begins with 'S' eg. S53A, S58A etc. You can PM me with that and I'll tell you what the current revision p/n is and you can go to your local dealer and buy a replacement. It's a simple 5 minute job to replace it and the new carb will be less than $30. I have the 55, I have to lock the throttle down to get it to start (per the manual). Funny enough, I bought a Stihl edger and they seem to have done away with that feature.
I have found the pulling the cord slowly and few times, then giving it a yank seems to really help things get started. My Stihl trimmer's button failed last year, I had to pull the spark plug cap to get it to stop. Try to find you some non-eth gas, as others have said.
I just wish I could find some string that doesn't break so easy. Originally Posted By zengrasshopper: Read pages 22, 23, and 25 in the user manual. The Stihl has a specific startup procedure to start and if you do it, it will work perfectly. I have had several people complain about getting them to run, but once I showed them the procedure they work everytime.
My father was even given a brand new FS45 that the owner couldn't get running, I started it within a couple of pulls. The reason you can only get it to start with the throttle depressed is because it is supposed to start that way. Flip stop switch to the I position Squeeze the throttle and lock so the throttle stays wide open Set the choke open Prime at least 5 times(I prime until the bulb is full and give it another pump or two) Pull cord until it starts then dies Turn off choke and pull cord until it starts Once it is running, squeeze throttle lever to disengage the tongue and settle to idle speed.
I have had my FS45 for over 7 years, and never winterized it or added fuel stabilizers other than what was in the oil. The carbs were finally gummed up this spring, I cleaned the carbs and started using AmsOil Saber at 1:100 mix and she is back to running beautifully.
This is exactly how I start all of my Stihl tools. Also make sure you use nothing but premium/hi test gas in it. I also use fuel stabilizer in all of my stored gas.
But, not being smart, did you earth the plug? Pull it out, place the plug lead on, and earth the plug to metal on the engine, when you pulled the cord?
These are two stroke and the shelf life of two stroke, unless stabilised, is woeful. Any old fuel may have jelled up in the carby (seen this happen). I voided warranty in one cheap 2 stroke I brought my Daughter, as the fuel 'went-off'. It would run for a few seconds if I put fuel down the plug hole. Cost almost as much as purchase to repair. One reason that my gear is now all four stroke. However, two companies, that I know off: Briggs and Stratton and Stihl make a liquid that will stabilise fuel and prolong shelf life.
I've used both and they work well. You can google both. All the best.
The Stihl is a 2-stroke motor. The Honda is a 4-stroke. As 2-stroke motors use and oil/petrol mix maintenance is very simple. However, I've found spark plugs need to be changed fairly regularly (or at least cleaned).
The 4-stroke has an oil sump which needs to be drained and refilled at regular intervals. Spark plugs tend to last longer as they don't get fouled by oil ( which is necessary in the 2-stroke).
Stihl F5 45 C Manual
I've found that 4-strokes tend to be easier to start, and you don't end up smelling of oily petrol as you do with 2-strokes. But you do have more maintenance and must check oil levels in the sump prior to use. Failure to have sufficient oil will cause the engine to sieze quickly.
A Stihl mechanic told me that he uses twice the ratio of oil in the fuel than recommended by the 2-stroke manufacturer and gets much longer life from his machines. I'm not sure how true this is because I've always strictly adhered to the manufacturers recommendations. My understanding is that when you tap the head on the ground the trimmer line extends, feeding you more. The 2main reasons the line is not fed are: a) there is no more line to feed, or b) the line is caught inside and cannot feed. Both conditions require you to add more line or find and unjam the line. Your Stihl manual should have instructions on how to open the bump-head and replace the line.
Stihl Fs45c Manual Pdf
If you don't have a manual, find your model number on the machine and go to the makers web site and download a copy of the relevant manual. Generally, the shop you bought the machine from will stock replacement bump-head with trimmer line. These will cost extra but save you the trouble of replacing the line.